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Journey through Japan: Our two week itinerary (and what we would change)

Two weeks in Japan is not enough. But if you’re like us and you have limited time and/or funds, you can probably squeeze in most of what you want to experience into a fortnight.

We travelled to Japan in spring because it coincided nicely with a four day Easter weekend, the end of the ski season and (hopefully) the start of the cherry blossom season. It was also around the time of my 30th birthday and I couldn’t think of a better way to celebrate!

And, guess what? We timed our trip to Japan perfectly! Check out Dan’s awesome video (above) to see for yourself!

We were able to do and see plenty of things during our short holiday in Japan, but, in hindsight, there are a few things we would have done differently…

Our two week itinerary in Japan

Dan wanted to squeeze in some snowboarding. I wanted to explore the culture and the food. We both wanted to see the cherry blossoms. So, we researched it all, purchased flights in and out of Narita Airport near Tokyo, and finally decided on this:

Tokyo (4 nights) > Jigokudani Monkey Park (day trip on our way out of Tokyo) > Akakura Onsen (3 nights) > Kyoto (3 nights) > Hiroshima (day trip on our way to Miyajima Island) > Miyajima Island (2 nights) > Hakone Yamote (2 nights) > Tokyo (1 night)

What worked

Getting the 14 Day JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass)

The JR Pass was cost effective and easy to use after we activated it in Tokyo. It entitled us to unlimited use of the JR network between destinations and the JR network in cities like Kyoto and Tokyo. We were also entitled to unlimited use of the JR ferry to Miyajima Island.

JR Pass and Kyoto Map

Staying in a traditional Japanese ryokan in an onsen town

This is a cultural experience that I think everyone should have when they visit Japan. In Akakura Onsen we stayed in a lovely Japanese ryokan (guest house/ inn) featuring an onsen (hot spring). It was relaxing and awesome, and I highly recommend you do the same!

A day trip to Hiroshima

We visited Hiroshima as a day trip between destinations. It was a great idea because you don’t actually need much time in Hiroshima if you only want to see the Peace Park and museum. (There’s not much else to see in Hiroshima that you can’t see elsewhere in Japan).

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is a museum located in Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, in central Hiroshima. It’s dedicated to documenting the World War II atomic bombing and takes about an hour to walk through. It’s a harrowing experience but well worth it to see the events and aftermath of the atomic bomb in an unbiased and straightforward manner.

Mobile internet

We wanted to stay online during out time in Japan, and not only to holiday spam our friends on Instagram and facebook. We also wanted quick and easy access to train timetables via HyperDia and easy access to Google Maps so that we could navigate our way through the big cities Thankfully, in the land that gave us many technological advances and pokemon, there are also plenty of telecommunication providers that rent portable Wi-Fi devices and mobile phones by the day.

Before we arrived in Japan, we ordered a pocket-sized Wi-Fi device online through PuPuRu. It was delivered to our hotel before we arrived, and came with a charger and a return envelope so that we could post it back to the company from the airport when we departed. It made it super easy to access internet simultaneously on our mobile phones, tablet and laptop throughout our trip.

Packing light

Over the years, we’ve learned to pack light: a small daypack for overnight or weekend trips, and carry-on luggage for longer trips. And, I’m glad our packing strategy Japan was no different!

Because we were on the move quite often, battling the crowded train stations would have been much more difficult with a large backpack or too much heavy luggage. We had Dan’s large snowboarding bag with us for the first part of our trip, and it was a bitch when we had to drag it up and down stairs through train stations in addition to our other luggage. Without it, we were able to glide more easily to and from destinations with our light carry-on bags.

Dan and luggage on a Japan train

Storing luggage on day trips

Every big train station has different sized coin lockers to store your luggage for around ¥500-700 per use. We used the coin lockers to store our bags in Nagano train station on our day trip to Jigokudani Monkey Park, and again in Hiroshima train station when we went to Hiroshima. They are conveniently located and easy to use – just make sure you get in earlier to nab one of the larger ones if you need it, and have plenty of ¥100 coins at your disposal.

Shipping luggage between destinations

There is a fantastic hotel-to-hotel delivery service in Japan that means you don’t have to drag your own luggage everywhere. Cost will vary depending on the shipping company the hotel chooses to use.

After Dan’s snowboarding adventures in the Japanese Alps (check out his video!), we asked the ryokan to store his large snowboard bag for a week and send it to our hotel in Tokyo so that it was there when we arrive. It cost around ¥1,600 (£10).

What would we change?

Getting the 14 Day JR Green Pass (Japan Rail Pass)

Because of the length of some of our journeys (Akakura Onsen to Kyoto was a local train and two Shinkansens over five hours), we decided to purchase the Green Car JR Pass instead of the standard JR Pass.

The chairs are much more luxurious, you get much more leg room, and … well that’s just it. Other than a little bit more space and luxury, the Green Car wasn’t much different to the reserved seating car. But there was also a difference of about £60 per ticket. For a small savings, I would be totally happy with the standard JR Pass.

Reserving train seats in advance

There are some train routes which can get very busy and crowded, even in the middle of the day. It’s better to reserve train seats at the train station a day or two before your intended journey.

When we tried to reserve seats from Kyoto to Hiroshima on the same day, we were told that there were no seats left to reserve (in the Green Car or standard car) on the 11am train and that we would have to wait for the 3pm train to Hiroshima. This would mean that we wouldn’t have enough time in Hiroshima to see all that we wanted to see.

We had to take a detour to Shin-Osaka station and lined up with hundreds of others to try and battle for a seat in the unreserved car to Hiroshima. Some of our group ended up standing with their backpacks for a few stops until they could get a seat for the 90 minute train journey.

On some train trips, we were completely on our own!

JR Train by ourselves

More time in Kyoto and Tokyo

We’re divided. Dan thinks that if we had to change anything it would be to have more time in Tokyo. If I could change anything, it would be more time in Kyoto. Both cities are so incredibly different but have so much to offer.

Kyoto is an historical hub full of shines, temples and old artefacts that really give you a sense of where the Japanese people have come from and what they have gone through. It’s easy to navigate by bus or on foot, and it’s a much smaller city than Tokyo, which means that there are many more tourists (domestic and international) crammed into a smaller area and the biggest tourist attractions. It’s also a great destination if you like antique shopping and history.

Tokyo is a cultural hub that will explode your senses. It’s a huge city, with millions of people, and hundreds of things to see and do. I loved it for the food, the culture, and the considerate people. Dan loved it because he just likes big cities – and Tokyo is as big as they come! There are also plenty of smaller cities and areas within Tokyo, each with its own distinct personality and atmosphere.

More day trips from Tokyo and Kyoto

Japan is a relatively small island nation and the train network is fast and simple to navigate. So, it’s easy to stay based in a larger city and take day trips to smaller towns or destinations. Or, if you decide to do a stopover between destinations, every train station has coin lockers to store your luggage for about ¥500-700 per use.

In Hiroshima, you can visit the Hiroshima Peace Park and museum, have a delicious Okinamiyaki lunch, and visit the Hiroshima Castle in about 4-6 hours.

On Miyajima Island, you can walk up and down Mt Misen (or take the cable car), see the floating Torii gate, run away from some deer, have lunch, and explore a few shrines in about 4-6 hours. And, the train + ferry from Hiroshima station takes about 45 minutes.

You can easily visit Hakone in a day from Tokyo. You can even get the Hakone Free Pass which will include all of your train, cable car and ferry (pirate ship) costs to and from Tokyo.

Hakone Mt Fuji and the Torii Gate

And, from Kyoto, you can visit Osaka and Nara for more historical sites and cultural hubs.

We stayed overnight in some lovely places, but we probably could have spent more time in Kyoto and Tokyo had we done day trips instead of overnight trips.


Follow our ‘Journey through Japan’

Culture Shock: reflections on my first day in Japan

Three days in Tokyo: a tantalising taste of Japan

Journey through Japan: The Year of the (Japanese Snow) Monkey

How to onsen in Japan like a local

Journey through Japan: Snowboarding in the Japanese Alps

Journey through Japan: Two days in Kyoto

Nature’s annual travelling show, cherry blossoms!

 

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20 Comments

  • avatar
    Reply
    Nam Cheah
    April 14, 2016 at 1:39 am

    Lovely tips! Will definitely look up the PuPuPu mobile internet!
    Also love your video – nothing speaks more than photos and vids, though I am not a huge fan of the music, too loud and invasive!

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 7:36 am

      The PuPuRu was great!
      Glad you liked the video – we did debate the music. Glad for your feedback. 🙂
      Jacqui

  • avatar
    Reply
    Lyssie
    April 14, 2016 at 1:44 am

    Wow, it looks so amazing! Japan has always been on my bucket list. Did you manage okay speaking English? Japan sounds much like Washington, D.C. – memorials, monuments, cherry blossoms, it reminds me of my most recent trip! Although Japan is much more exotic and exciting, I’m sure. Love this post!

    • avatar
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      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 7:30 am

      Hi Lyssie,
      I was actually reminded of Washington DC when we were in Hiroshima. But Tokyo is a city unto itself!
      There were only a couple of instances in which our lack of Japanese was a problem. And, a couple of times we were refused a table at a bar or restaurant (Izakaya) because they clearly on served locals or didn’t have an English menu. But most of the time we were able to get by quite easily. There was almost always someone at a train station or restaurant who could speak “a little English”. Pointing at things also helped!
      It’s my favourite country so far and we already have plans to go back. I hope you make it there soon!
      Jacqui

  • avatar
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    Adrienne Lee
    April 14, 2016 at 3:36 am

    Good info. I’ve been to Tokyo for business, but would like to see more of the country.

    • avatar
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      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 7:42 am

      It was amazing, Adrienne! I hope you get to go back for pleasure 🙂
      Jacqui

  • avatar
    Reply
    thiskenyantraveler
    April 14, 2016 at 2:09 pm

    How was ordering food in a restaurant or buying something in a supermarket Jacqui? I visited Narita, Japan and it was hard for non Japanese speakers

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 3:10 pm

      Hi Thiskenyantraveler,
      Ordering from a restaurant or bar (Izakaya) was quite easy if there were English menus with photos. In touristy areas there are plenty of these. A couple of times we were turned away because the bar only served locals and they did not have English menus. Sometimes I would just point at what someone else was eating and ask for that! Mostly, Japanese people were very considerate and patient with us.
      Shopping at the supermarket was quite easy! There are 7/11’s and FamilyMarts everywhere. And they have really good ready-to-go food available all the time – sushi, salads, sandwiches, warm pork buns, and noodles dishes.
      Sometimes it was hard and there was lots of pointing. And, sometimes we ordered the wrong thing – but it was all part of the experience!
      Jacqui

  • avatar
    Reply
    Eva-Marjan Lamot
    April 14, 2016 at 2:48 pm

    I literally didn’t know anything about Japan, but I’m glad that you made a change in that!
    I’ve never heard of the portable WiFi devices before actually, can you tell me a bit more about that, please?
    So cool that you can just ship your luggage from one hotel to another, that must give a lot of freedom!
    I learned a lot in this post and Japan suddenly doesn’t seem so mysterious anymore.
    Great post!

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 3:20 pm

      Hi Eva-Marjan,
      Japan is so different to every other country I’ve ever travelled to, but it was also my favourite! It appears quite mysterious and daunting, but it only takes a couple of days to start learning how to get around on the metro and train systems and where to go for food. It also helped that the Japanese people were so friendly and polite. If we looked lost or confused at the train station, someone almost always stopped to help, even if they couldn’t speak much English – there was always plenty of pointing!
      I’d never heard of portable Wi-Fi devices until we started researching Japan. But they are so convenient and very easy to use! We ordered ours online and we were able to carry it around in our pockets or bags so that we could literally be online all the time. It operates on the mobile phone networks, so we only dropped out of signal if we were underground or in a tunnel. I ordered our device with 10 gig of data. I’m not sure if that was per day or for our whole trip, but I was uploading photos on Instagram and my blog every day and we never went over.
      Our friends were able to pick up a mobile Wi-Fi device at Narita airport when they arrived. They rented theirs through Softbank and they just returned it to the same shop when they left.
      Because there were 15 (!) of us travelling through Japan and meeting up at different points, having access to Whatsap, facebook Messenger and Google Maps was essential.
      Let me know if you have any other questions!
      Jacqui

  • avatar
    Reply
    Lauren of Postgrad & Postcards
    April 14, 2016 at 4:10 pm

    I LOVE that you told me what you’d change. Often, this information is more valuable that knowing what someone did!

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 14, 2016 at 4:19 pm

      Thanks Lauren. Our first trip to Japan was very much a learning curve, and I wanted to share what we learned! I hope it helps 🙂

  • avatar
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    Vicki | MakeTimeToSeeTheWorld
    April 14, 2016 at 11:43 pm

    What an amazing adventure! I love that you can hire a wifi device – every country should have something like it – it would save so much on roaming! Also, it’s great to know the rail pass is worth it, as that’s how i’ve always envisioned getting around Japan. Thanks for all you tips!

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 15, 2016 at 9:46 am

      Glad I could help, Vicki!

  • avatar
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    Mel | illumelation
    April 15, 2016 at 2:35 am

    Pocket WiFi is hugely popular in Japan, isn’t it! Sounds like you had a wonderful birthday treat amidst the cherry blossoms and ski slopes. Japan truly is an incredible country, full of great food, culture, and helpful people.

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 15, 2016 at 9:47 am

      I did have a wonderful birthday! I’m so glad we were able to visit Japan – the food! the culture! the people! We’re already planning what we want to do when we go back. 🙂

  • avatar
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    Gabby Beckford
    April 15, 2016 at 1:16 pm

    I lived in Japan for three years and I think you definitely captured the essence of Japan in this post 🙂 The good (cool Tokyo and Kyoto) the bad (Hiroshima memorial) and the cool quirks in between like the onsens, cherry blossoms, and the Monkey Park!

    • avatar
      Reply
      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      April 15, 2016 at 1:27 pm

      Thanks, Gabby! I loved Japan so much that I could see myself living there for a shot period. Do you think we would have difficulty if we couldn’t speak the language well?

  • avatar
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    Mary O'Sullivan
    July 19, 2016 at 7:07 am

    Hi Jacqui, It’s Mary O’Sullivan, Tony’s wife. We are thinking of goingwith the family to Japan in January and I love your bolb. So interesting. But have you written about Hiroshima and your travel past Kyoto. is so, I’d love to read it.

    • avatar
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      Jacqui Moore-Moroney
      July 19, 2016 at 3:12 pm

      Hi Mary!
      Great to hear from you. I’m updating the blog constantly, so I’ll write a post about Hiroshima and Kyoto for you very soon (this week).
      Much love,
      Jacqui

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